Scoops du Jour: L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Today Adam Miller reviews another restaurant at the top of my to-go list. Seems like he enjoyed it…



Dining with a Deity

by

Adam Miller

Normally, counters, bars, and the like are reserved for an influx of booze and inebriation. However, at the Four Seasons Hotel in New York, a certain counter which seats 20 people is reserved for the lucky few who are able to secure reservations and dine at the hands of a deity. Joel Robuchon opened his New York L’Atelier branch nearly two years ago. He has other branches in Paris, Tokyo, and Las Vegas; it was only a matter of time before he tested the waters of New York.

After navigating your way through the immense lobby of the I.M. Pei hotel and ascending the staircase to heaven, you are presented with two options. On the left is the Four Season bar, a raucous locale for the richest of the rich ($30 for a glass of champagne); on the right, is L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, standing out in its red and black palette; the bar/counter adorned with beautiful flowers. As you walk in, you know this place is entirely about the food. The kitchen front and center, the chickens roasting on a rotisserie highlighted in the background, the artwork of each dish visible from all counter seats.

If you are not well-versed in the new wave of dining in Manhattan, here is an update: Tapas is in! Now, this is not so much a traditional tapas restaurant as it is a restaurant which allows you to sample a lot of smaller dishes… and ethereal dishes they are. The crispy langoustine en papillote with basil pesto is most likely the best crustacean I have ever eaten. The soft, plump juiciness of the langoustine contrasts perfectly with the delicate crispiness of the phyllo-like crust; in the middle sits an immaculate basil leaf undamaged in the cooking and preparation. The caramelized eel with smoked foie gras is layered like a rich mille-feuille – this dish hit home especially since I’m generally not an eel lover (I know it’s a sin, especially since I love Sushi Yasuda so much).

Other original dishes include the Alsatian pastrami served with chilled shaved foie gras and fingerling potatoes (strikingly and surprisingly good) and the pan-sauteed amadai in a yuzu citrus broth with lily bulbs. The amadai (a Japanese yellowtail of sorts) was cooked perfectly as the skin was just barely crispy and not at all fishy. There is also the beef and foie gras burgers, taking a lesson from DB Bistro Moderne by serving a “classy” burger. However, my favorite dish is unquestionably the caramelized quail stuffed with foie gras and served with potato puree and black truffles. The breast is stuffed with foie gras and the drumsticks are served on the side. The potato puree is reminiscent of David Bouley’s creamy mashed potatoes; however, the slices of black truffle put this puree over the top. There is nothing else I can say to describe it…. Just go try it!

By the time I get to dessert, I am usually too stuffed to want something substantial. However, at Robuchon, dessert is a must (as it should be at any top tier restaurant). My favorite, which has since been removed from the menu, is Robuchon’s staple: Le Sucre. It is a golden sugar sphere filled with vanilla ice cream, saffron mousse, and macerated berries. The sphere is fragile and bold, crafted from a blow torch to surround the sweet and sour fruits. It is the most original dessert I have ever tried (and one of the best). I also really enjoyed the Pamplemousse – large grapefruit segments served with a wine gelee and mint sorbet. Both were extremely refreshing and perfectly executed.

There are also several touches which do not go unnoticed. Given the style of dining (small tasting portions which are supposed to be shared), it is sometimes hard to coordinate the meal. However, the waiters do a very good job; most noticeably, they will give complimentary dishes so that every diner has a course in front of him at all times. This was especially true when it came time for desserts, and more often than not, several diners are too full to order $17 desserts.

Not enough can be said about this new establishment. While it would be better served in a different locale, it is a welcome addition to New York’s top tier.