Scoops du Jour: Blue Hill at Stone Barns

Adam Miller is back with another review of a really great restaurant. This time he reviews Blue Hill at Stone Barns while also chipping in a little about Blue Hill here in New York City. Before we get to the review I'd like to mention that Blue Hill is one of my favorite NYC restaurants and is more affordable than other restaurants in its ilk. I also appreciate the restaurant as a true embodiment of the farm to table ideal, serving meat and produce coming from its farm in upstate New York (where Blue Hill at Stone Barns is located.)

Now I challenge Adam to write a review of a restaurant that he doesn't like at all.



Simple Fare Warrants Extraordinary Praise

By

Adam Miller

New Yorker v. B&T. Questions arise when a faux New Yorker claims to be from New York. Where do you live in the City? What high school did you go to? What are your favorite restaurants? Where do you go out to bars? If any of these are met with a glimmer of hesitation or the answer “Meatpacking and Chelsea,” chances are you’re not a New Yorker. Usually, said people are from Westchester or Long Island. However, these suburban areas do win in some regards…. Long Island has beautiful beaches. Westchester has… ummm… well, Westchester seemed to have nothing until this last weekend.

This past weekend, I ventured up to Tarrytown for Sarah’s birthday (for those of you that don’t know me, Sarah is my girlfriend). Since we both love food, I thought it would be best to take her to a restaurant where you can have a truly “foodie” experience. I went to Blue Hill at Stone Barns with very high expectations although I had been told that Blue Hill in the City is the more highly regarded restaurant. I came away with a truly incredible experience and the acknowledgement that Westchester had one-upped NYC in at least one aspect.

Blue Hill in the City is a simple restaurant in the vein of Gotham, JoJo, or Gramercy Tavern. It serves very strong food (at somewhat reasonable prices for NYC) and accentuates its strong suits (vegetables, fruit, game, etc.). Stone Barns, on the other hand, takes it further; it bends your mind (and taste buds), offering new and exciting fare in an original manner.

During the Summer months, Stone Barns shies away from a traditional menu and offers two tasting menus. This is the first thing that gets noticed when seated at the table. On the right side of the menu, Chef/Owner Dan Barber has listed all the main ingredients which could be featured in a given dish (asparagus, scallops, lobster, oysters, Berkshire pork, duck, lamb, etc.). On the left side there are four rows:

- Five course tasting menu $95
- Farmer’s feast $125
- Charcuterie plate $28
- Cheese $17

That’s it. That’s your choice. The charcuterie plate is designed for two people and is meant to start your meal while the cheese course (for one) is intended to conclude your meal. We avoided both while electing the Farmer’s feast over the smaller meal, deciding this was the true way to dine at Stone Barns.

While our choice ended there, the interaction with our waiter did not. He (along with the chef) was looking to design a meal which would flow easily but still meet all our gastronomical desires. He asked me if there was anything I did not want to see as well as anything I definitely wanted to see. “No oysters or Spanish mackerel. Definitely a pork dish. Otherwise, I’ll eat anything you serve me.” Sarah obviously told the waiter that she didn’t want any seafood.

The waiter also strongly recommended an excellent white burgundy to accompany the meal instead of a wine pairing. The 2005 Meursault recommended by the sommelier was an incredible bottle and half the price of a wine pairing for two. The thought process was that I could get a much better bottle for $100-150 than I would ever try during a wine pairing, and a great white burgundy would really develop throughout the meal. This recommendation was a huge success and really hit home.

The food was no slouch either. In fact, several courses were some of the best dishes I’ve ever had. The amuse bouches woke up my palate in a startling way. The lemongrass spritzer with mint and a cherry ice cube was followed by fresh snap peas sprinkled with yuzu. The face bacon (paper thin slices of bacon taken from the jowl of a pig) was followed by pancetta wrapped asparagus with sesame seeds. We also had pea burgers (surprisingly good) and “bread and butter” – little squares of bread served with ricotta (a la A Voce) and butter as well as arugula and carrot flavored salts, which were good but not necessary.

The first course was a green tomato gazpacho with yogurt cream. I am not a fan of cold soups, but this dish was an incredible way to start the meal. The slight texture of the cream was a great counter to the refreshingly light gazpacho. This dish was followed by crispino lettuce with spring vegetables and Barber’s patented lettuce broth. Although it may sound (and look) like rodent food, it was a surprisingly deep and meaty dish. I am not one to order salads or vegetarian dishes and I am generally disappointed when an expensive tasting menu is littered with vegetables rather than foie gras or lobster, but these starters were phenomenal.

I followed the vegetarian plates with a a perfectly cooked scallop with minty peas and pistachios while Sarah had saltouse, a leafy green vegetable from Southeast Asia with some flavors resembling sesame or peanut butter, accompanied by shitakes and morels. We also had the renowned soft poached egg over crushed zucchini and morels. However, this time the soft poached egg was flash fried to give it a crispy, slightly “breaded” coating.

Finally, the meat courses arrived. First, we had a braised pork belly dish (as requested) with spaetzle. If not for the sauce which was drizzled next to the pork, I thought this dish lacked a bit of flavor. But the spaetzle and the sauce really brought out the strong flavors in the fatty pork. This dish was followed by a neck and loin of lamb with fava beans; the lamb was perfectly cooked and delicious, but at this point, I was really rather full.

This concluded our savory portion of the meal and was followed by two desserts: steamed strawberries with sour cream sorbet and honey gelee, and rhubarb meringue with farmer’s cheese ice cream. Both were outstanding.

After finishing the meal, I was truly blown away by the experience and the flavors. Having followed the methodology of Alice Waters and other fine California chefs, Dan Barber has outdone himself (and his NYC restaurant). This was an unforgettable meal that will change the way you view food.

Scoops du Jour: L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Today Adam Miller reviews another restaurant at the top of my to-go list. Seems like he enjoyed it…



Dining with a Deity

by

Adam Miller

Normally, counters, bars, and the like are reserved for an influx of booze and inebriation. However, at the Four Seasons Hotel in New York, a certain counter which seats 20 people is reserved for the lucky few who are able to secure reservations and dine at the hands of a deity. Joel Robuchon opened his New York L’Atelier branch nearly two years ago. He has other branches in Paris, Tokyo, and Las Vegas; it was only a matter of time before he tested the waters of New York.

After navigating your way through the immense lobby of the I.M. Pei hotel and ascending the staircase to heaven, you are presented with two options. On the left is the Four Season bar, a raucous locale for the richest of the rich ($30 for a glass of champagne); on the right, is L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, standing out in its red and black palette; the bar/counter adorned with beautiful flowers. As you walk in, you know this place is entirely about the food. The kitchen front and center, the chickens roasting on a rotisserie highlighted in the background, the artwork of each dish visible from all counter seats.

If you are not well-versed in the new wave of dining in Manhattan, here is an update: Tapas is in! Now, this is not so much a traditional tapas restaurant as it is a restaurant which allows you to sample a lot of smaller dishes… and ethereal dishes they are. The crispy langoustine en papillote with basil pesto is most likely the best crustacean I have ever eaten. The soft, plump juiciness of the langoustine contrasts perfectly with the delicate crispiness of the phyllo-like crust; in the middle sits an immaculate basil leaf undamaged in the cooking and preparation. The caramelized eel with smoked foie gras is layered like a rich mille-feuille – this dish hit home especially since I’m generally not an eel lover (I know it’s a sin, especially since I love Sushi Yasuda so much).

Other original dishes include the Alsatian pastrami served with chilled shaved foie gras and fingerling potatoes (strikingly and surprisingly good) and the pan-sauteed amadai in a yuzu citrus broth with lily bulbs. The amadai (a Japanese yellowtail of sorts) was cooked perfectly as the skin was just barely crispy and not at all fishy. There is also the beef and foie gras burgers, taking a lesson from DB Bistro Moderne by serving a “classy” burger. However, my favorite dish is unquestionably the caramelized quail stuffed with foie gras and served with potato puree and black truffles. The breast is stuffed with foie gras and the drumsticks are served on the side. The potato puree is reminiscent of David Bouley’s creamy mashed potatoes; however, the slices of black truffle put this puree over the top. There is nothing else I can say to describe it…. Just go try it!

By the time I get to dessert, I am usually too stuffed to want something substantial. However, at Robuchon, dessert is a must (as it should be at any top tier restaurant). My favorite, which has since been removed from the menu, is Robuchon’s staple: Le Sucre. It is a golden sugar sphere filled with vanilla ice cream, saffron mousse, and macerated berries. The sphere is fragile and bold, crafted from a blow torch to surround the sweet and sour fruits. It is the most original dessert I have ever tried (and one of the best). I also really enjoyed the Pamplemousse – large grapefruit segments served with a wine gelee and mint sorbet. Both were extremely refreshing and perfectly executed.

There are also several touches which do not go unnoticed. Given the style of dining (small tasting portions which are supposed to be shared), it is sometimes hard to coordinate the meal. However, the waiters do a very good job; most noticeably, they will give complimentary dishes so that every diner has a course in front of him at all times. This was especially true when it came time for desserts, and more often than not, several diners are too full to order $17 desserts.

Not enough can be said about this new establishment. While it would be better served in a different locale, it is a welcome addition to New York’s top tier.

Scoops du Jour: Le Bernardin

Some friends of mine have dined at some pretty amazing restaurants lately (ones that I drema of going to) and have had the generoosity to write reviews for this site. Today I'm posting Adam Miller's review of one of his favorite restaurants, Le Bernardin.

Fish Lover’s Heaven

By

Adam Miller

My parents introduced me to fine dining at a very young age. I went to Bouley for the first time in 1991 when I was eight years old. It was the best restaurant in the City (if not the country). Everything from the beautiful, understated décor to the perfect service and immaculate food was incredible. However, with the announcement of its closing, I went on a search for my soon-to-be new favorite restaurant. If there’s one thing Bouley opened my eyes to, it was seafood. And ever since the original Bouley on Duane Street closed in 1996, I have been the biggest advocate for Le Bernardin, the top (seafood) restaurant in New York.

Le Bernardin is one of the few (if not the only) restaurants in New York City to have always received four stars from The New York Times. As it is written every time the review comes out: It is harder to maintain four stars than to earn four stars a single time. If there is one restaurant that everyone should visit in New York, it is Le Bernardin. It is the single finest dining experience around.

As one may deduce, I have been going to Le Bernardin for at least twelve years. What makes the restaurant so incredible is not just the incredible food, the unwavering service, or the beautiful, wood-paneled room; it is also the variety of food and the warmth of the experience. For such a big restaurant with such a great variety of seafood, it is an extremely intimate restaurant. The beautiful bouquets of flowers dominate the interior of the room as the soft palette of the paintings line the walls. It truly is an unrivaled dining room.

Eric Ripert, the executive chef and part owner, however dominates from the inside. At one time, the restaurant had a window which allowed the diners to look into the perfectly pristine kitchen and watch the chefs paint the ginger lime mayonnaise onto the thinly pounded tuna carpaccio. That window no longer exists, but the quality of the food does. I have dined at Le Bernardin more times than I can remember over the last thirteen years and there several dishes which I will never forget (and continue to populate the menu). The thinly pounded raw tuna over a crispy baguette and foie gras covered in chives and olive oil is a great way to start the meal – the dish is refreshing and the crispiness of the baguette with the foie gras is an excellent complement to the tenderness of the tuna. Other great starters include the tasting of fluke, served four different ways as well as the kanpachi tartare (a Japanese yellowtail) served with wasabi tobiko and crisp toast. Other signature dishes include the baby barbecued eels, the spiny lobster carpaccio, the sea urchin risotto with toasted nori, and the Pizza Bernardin – a crispy phylo dough topped with a spicy tomato sauce, perfectly cooked tender shrimp, and some basil. While the pizza is no longer served, it (like old staples) can be specially ordered when the reservation is booked.

Several entrees also stand out. The “surf and turf” comprised of Hawaiian escolar and 4 ounces of kobe beef, accompanied by a brown butter emulsion, a piece of kimchee flavored lettuce, asian pear, and butternut squash is one of my favorite dishes at any restaurant ever. I also have taken a strong liking to the monkfish served “Gaudi” style as Chef Ripert dons up the fish with some spicy chorizo and patatas bravas.

The desserts have also changed over the years. Sometimes the simplicity of the fruit cup accompanied by champagne and mixed berry sorbet strikes my fancy. Other times, I get sucked up in the passion fruit tart enrobed in white chocolate and served with mandarin sorbet. There is also the mainstay – a chocolate tarte oozing with fudge and topped with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. There are also lighter desserts: a citrus/rhubarb tart, a yuzu millefeuille, or an always stellar selection of sorbets.

There is very little to dislike about Le Bernardin and a whole lot to love. Although the menu may be somewhat limiting due to the lack of meat options (there are only 3 non-fish dishes on the menu), it never disappoints. It has always received four stars from The Times, and it continues to seem justified.

Scoops du Jour: Fiamma

This week Adam Miller reviews Fiamma, a BR Guest restaurant that has recently hired new chef Fabio Trabocchi and has generated much buzz in the food world. Although I haven't had a chance to pay a visit yet, Fiamma certainly ranks near the top of my list.

Italian, French, Who cares? A Cornerstone Is Added To SoHo

by Adam Miller

I recently moved to SoHo, a foreign land for most people who grew up in Manhattan. Many people are well versed in the numbered grid system where the private schools, most notably on the Upper West Side and Upper East Side. One of the main reasons I moved downtown (from my previous apartment on East 63rd Street) was the growing number of great restaurants. Luckily for me, one of the best new Italian restaurants in the City resides 2 blocks from my new apartment.

Fiamma is located in a beautiful brownstone on Spring Street, just west of Sixth Avenue. It occupies three floors and was recently remodeled to reflect its new direction. This direction is headed by the brilliant Fabio Trabocchi, who most recently presided over Maestro, the restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton outside Washington, D.C. Accompanying him at the “new” Fiammar (formerly known as Fiamma Osteria) is the sommelier, Ania Zawieja, who previously worked at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in the Four Season Hotel in New York.

Having read incredible reviews about Trabocchi and his restaurant in the Ritz, I put Fiamma at the top of my list. I went to the restaurant with my family, expecting a delicious, laid back meal – something comparable to our experiences at L’Impero or Alto (where the prior chef from Fiamma, Michael White, now works). Instead, we sat down to a 3 course prix fixe at $75 (not including dessert).

What ensued was a meal overflowing with mind-numbing taste. To start, I had what is simply known as “Il Carpaccio.” It is wagyu kobe beef served two ways: first, the raw kobe beef is wrapped around a root vegetable and topped with a poached quail egg; second, the kobe beef is chopped into a tartare and served with chopped mushrooms and sprinkled with parmesan. It may not be Italian; it could be French. Either way, none of us cared. Each bite exploded with flavor as my eyes began to bulge. No one in my family was prepared for such a delicious meal.

Following the appetizer was the pasta dish. I had an agnolotti of spiced lamb which was bundled with Moroccan spices and a clear Mediterranean influence. The moist lamb was well complemented by the kick from the spices and the perfectly cooked pasta. Other diners had the ravioli of duck and foie gras, which were nearly perfect.

At this point, many people would expect the quality to come down. More often than not, I have found that entrees are boring and do not live up to the excitement, flavor, or quality of the appetizers. However, Trabocchi did not disappoint. The veal, lamb, and turbot all impressed and stood on their own merit. By the time dessert came, I had fully gorged myself and could only stomach some sorbet, although it was perfectly icy and filled with fruit.

It is understandably difficult to spend so much money on Italian food, especially when there is a plethora of good Italian restaurants in New York. However, this stands above the rest, on the pedestal with Babbo, L’Impero, and Alto. The service is top-notch; the décor is very nice, but not stuffy and certainly not overly trendy (like the previous Fiamma). What am I trying to say? I like my neighborhood even more now.