The menu at Telepan is very comforting to me, and after my first visit the food pulled through as well. Executive chef Bill Telepan is one of a number of chefs whose menu reflects the seasons. He is an avid greenmarketeer and even has a cookbook Inspired by Ingredients, that can help the home chef along with cooking as determined by the market’s produce. The menu wasn’t comforting to me because of fancy descriptions or tales of Wagyu and Kobe beef. There were simply a lot of things that I liked to eat. It’s filled with eggs, potatoes, pork, pierogis and blinis and even (gasp) foie gras donuts! What was even more comforting however, was that as someone who frequents the Greenmarkets, all the ingredients were recognizable and accessible.
Although I only had brunch at Telepan, the food definitely warrants a dinner
trip in the near future. The smoked brook trout on celery root blini with green apple sour cream was too good not to taste again at some point. And everything I ate involving eggs, from the coddled eggs with scrapple (yes scrapple and its delicious) to the biscuits and gravy, a combination that reminds me of some sort of heavenly breakfast sandwich, everything I tasted was a winner. The four course $64 dollar prix fixe dinner even seems like a bargain. Even though the food does look very nice on the plate, it’s really the distinct and vibrant flavors on each plate that make the restaurant so much fun. You really get to taste your food. So, if you find yourself on the upper west side, a neighborhood relatively devoid of good restaurants, you should give Telepan a try, I promise you’ll like it.
Smoked trout, celery root blini, green apple sour cream
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